introduction
There are two good reasons to visit Iceland:
1. to experience the nature, especially the great number of seabirds and some Icelandic specialties
2. to see the volcanic activity in many places
Because it will be an expensive holiday one should prepare for both aspects: it is worthwhile the trouble! I was there together with my family so I could not spend the whole day birdwatching (though they too have eyes and ears!).
how to get there and get around
There are 2 possibilities:
1. by air, to the main airport at Keflavik in the SW.
There you can go further by renting a car, which is very expensive. You can take the bus instead which will limit your possibilities. I must however emphasize that the bus-net performs better than in NW-European countries, so you can visit a lot of places. It allows you to reach places where you wouldn't (dare to) come with a non 4wd-car. There is also an increasing number of cyclists; enjoying the nature will then be only partially possible (? ;they tell me that the wind is often in the wrong direction).
2. by boat, to Seyðisfjorður in the E. The Smyril-line (http://www.smyril-line.fo/) takes care of the ferry between Hanstholm (N-Denmark) and Iceland. (situation 1999:) They leave every Saturday-evening at 8 p.m. Monday-morning you will arrive in the Faeroer, where you have to stay 2 nights. While the ferry is on its way to Bergen and the Shetlands you can get an impression of these group of islands. There is a good campsite at Gjogv on Esturoy as part of a guesthouse. This guesthouse is close to a colony of sea-birds: Puffin, Fulmar, Black Guillemot, further Rock Dove and the (Faeroer-) Wren.
On Wednesday, late afternoon, the ferry leaves for Iceland, where you will arrive Thursday -morning. The other way around will be from Thursday (noon) till Saturday -afternoon (4 p.m.) with only a short stop at the Faeroer. Both ways you will have excellent views of seabirds near the Shetlands and the Faeroer.
Though rather expensive going by ferry has the advantage that you can take a lot of your own stuff with you, including lots of food. You will be able to visit far-off-places like Latrabjarg and Landmannalaugar (more details later). Shipping your car by Eimskip from the Netherlands and flying yourself can be done but won't be cheaper (?).
The famous ring-road (nr.1 ) is for the most part with asphalt, so are many other roads. Recent roadmaps will give sufficient information. It is even for a non 4wd-car possible to go through the interior, from Blonduos to Reykjavik. The "uncrossable" roads will have a sign at the start which indicates that it is only suitable for 4wd-cars because of the river-crossings (on maps designated with an F). The speed on the roads without asphalt will vary from 5 km/h (!) to 80 km/h. After completing the tour you will be familiar with "einbreid bru" , "blindhead" (including the one near Hofn in the SE) and you will despise "malbik endar". There are enough petrol-stations and you can often clean your car there. I still wonder what is the use of speed-limits in Iceland: the Icelandic people ignore them.
"how to stay alive"
This is not so difficult, provided you have enough money. Iceland is a very modern country so the use of credit-cards is widely accepted even for small amounts (+ 500 ISK; 1000 ISK = HFl 28,35 = 12,85 euro ). There are stores in most small villages, sometimes part of a petrol station. The bigger petrol-stations offer warm meals. Prices are higher than in NW-Europe, but visitors to Norway won't be that shocked. The prices of petrol and coffee are within normal range, most campsites are cheaper. There are lots of campsites, but the ones in tourist-areas lack proper maintenance and cannot cope with the great numbers of visitors. Prices are around 400-500 ISK per adult per night. Be aware in these crowded areas (Myvatn, Skaftafjell) that there are lots of touring groups which will (all of a sudden) fill in quiet parts of campsites and their facilities. There are 4 ways of camping:
1. on an official campsite, in some areas crowded. They often have no facilities for cooking !
2. near (a lot of ) guesthouses; usually you can use the indoor facilities !
3. camping-grounds, with only basic facilities as water and water-closets (no charges).
4. outside protected areas on your own
the weather
During a stay of 36 days on Iceland we had 4 days with some rain in the daytime; the majority of the other days were quite sunny. In the Myvatn-region we had 6 fine days of 20-24 oC ! The evenings and nights can be very cold of course (4-8 oC ). An area of high pressure near Greenland gives normally a stable situation with N or NE winds. Particularly the eastern part has often good weather as long as you consider the temperature as of minor importance. Some camp-sites will give you some information on the weather-forecast (http://www.vedur.is/).The Icelandic people are helpful and friendly, usually speaking English.
A phenomenon you should not miss is the Northern Light (Aurora Borealis) which we observed at Landmanna-laugar and at Skaftafjel after mid-august. This is very impressive and Iceland is probably the best place for it in Europe, being so close to the magnetic pole.
map 1
Bird areas: (map 1)
Rauðinupur(1a)
In the NE , a seabird-colony 25 km to the N of Kopasker in the Melrakkasletta-peninsula, near a lighthouse. This is one of the few places on the mainland of Island where you can watch breeding Gannets. There are of course the usual seabirds, including the Thickbilled Guillemot. And last but not least (for some of us): you can "see" the polar-circle (you could try to reach it by swimming).
Reykholar/Breidafjordur(2)
There is a little campsite near the swimming-pool (geothermally heated!). From there you have an excellent view at the coastal region: Redthroated Divers, White-tailed eagles, Ptarmigans, Black-tailed Godwits, Glaucous Gulls.
Latrabjarg(3)
A place you should not miss. I recommend Breidavik as a (camping-)base. In the guesthouse they have information on Icelandic nature and they (the landlady) are very willing to help. At what campsite does a Snipe breed 10 meter in front of your tent and is it possible to watch the Arctic Foxes play on the beach !? From there it is about 14 km to Latrabjarg. Birdspecies (August): Great Northern Diver, Harlequin-duck, Gyrfalcon, Merlin, Purple Sandpiper, seabirds, incl. breeding Glaucous Gulls and lots of Snowbuntings, at Latrabjarg all the seabirds
Snaefellsnes(4)
At Hellisandur-Rif there is a huge colony of Arctic Terns, there are groups of Great Black-Backed gulls with Glaucous Gulls, waders, passing seabirds. From there you can make quite easily a tour to the glacier Snaefellsjokull (best from the western slope, partially by car).
Reykjanes-peninsula(5)
There is the promontory at Garðskagi and the cape of Reykjanesta.
Near Garðskagi you can observe passing seabirds, like guillemots, Puffins, skuas, gulls, waders
At Reykjanesta there is another possibility to watch breeding Gannets close to the mainland
At some places near towns you will see the Starling, a rare bird in Island.
Landmannalaugar(6)
I came to Iceland in the belief that this highland-region would be unreachable with my non 4WD -car. It turned out to be possible. To my surprise only the last 36 km was not with asphalt and took me about 1,5 hour. From Selfoss coming you must take roadnr. 30 to the N, then 32 , the F26 and at last the F208 which takes you to the campsite.
Birdspecies: Pinkfooted Goose, Harlequinduck, Purple Sandpiper, Rednecked Phalarope, Snowbunting (flocks).
Skaftafjell(7)
In my view (end of august) this area is overpopulated with tourists. The only reason to visit this particular part of Iceland is the presence of woods with small trees. Therefore you can observe here the Blackbird and the Wren, hardly the reason for your visit to Iceland !?? A few km to the SW there is another campsite, less crowded. The presence of Vatnajokull you can best see at the ice-lake Jokulsarlon. In this coastal area, Breiðamerkursandur, there is a colony of Great Skuas.
1.Redthroated Diver, common in all regions of Iceland whenever there is a small lake or a small lagoon. Some birds were very busy with courtship- behavior, in the water and in the air.
2.Great Northern Diver, small numbers were seen in the coastal regions in the west and in the south. 3 adult birds were seen on lake Myvatn ( 22 july)
3.Slavonian Grebe, only seen on lake Myvatn: 1 pair with young (22 july)
4.Fulmar, very common in all coastal areas and of course on the way the Iceland. They seem to breed more and
more on cliffs in the inland (more than 20 kms )
5.Manx Shearwater *, only seen near the Faeroer
6.Storm Petrel*
7.Gannet, rather common around the Shetlands and in the coastal areas of Faeroer and Iceland. Colonies seen at
Rauðinupur and Reykjanesta (see above)
8.Cormorant, some birds in the western coastal area: Breidafjordur, Reykjanes
9.Shag, rather common in the coastal areas
10.Whooper Swan, in the same habitats as the redthroated divers but in smaller numbers. At Lake Myvatn in the
second half of july a concentrations of ... birds. Also some groups in the lagoons to the NE of Hofn (SE-Iceland)
11.Pink-footed Goose, groups were seen near Reykholar (5 , heading E ), Landmannalaugar (3 groups on 3 separate occasions heading SW), 6 ind to the SE of Skaftafjell; all observations in august.
occasions: mid august) and to the SE of Skaftafjell. These birds were probably migrating from their breeding- grounds. Chances will be best at Landmannalaugar, nearest to the breeding-grounds.
12.Greylag Goose, common in the western coastal regions
13.Wigeon, at lake Myvatn a common breeding bird
14.Gadwall at lake Myvatn some birds were seen in the east
15.Teal, small numbers at lake Myvatn, Reykjanes and Landmannalaugar
16.Mallard, lake Myvatn, near Skaftafjell
17.Pintail, small numbers at Lake Myvatn
18.Tufted Duck, numerous at lake Myvatn
19.Scaup, common breeding bird at lake Myvatn
20.Eider, numerous in all coastal areas
21.Harlequin duck, best place at lake Myvatn is the laxa (river) downstream of the bridge to the SW of the lake: at 26 july 22 birds(no males), including 6 young. Near Breidavik and Reykjanes groups were seen , mostly female and young birds, only one male.
22.Longtailed Duck, fairly common as a breeding birds in lake Myvatn, some groups resting in coastal areas in the W
23.Common Scoter, some females with young at lake Myvatn
24.Barrows Goldeneye, common in lake Myvatn; best places to observe these birds are the E and the W shore.
25.Red-breasted Merganser, common in most places of Iceland: Myvatn and coastal areas
25.White-tailed Eagle, 6 ind near Reykholar and 1 near the road to Breidavik (mosrly younger birds)
26.Merlin, fairly common whenever there are redwings
27.Gyrfalcon, 1 pair seen hunting on an islet in lake Myvatn (23 july), 1 ind near Breidavik (5 aug)
28.Ptarmigan, widespread in the green areas of Iceland. About the same habitat as willow grouse in Scandinavia; no birds seen in pure volcanic areas
29.Oystercatcher, small numbers in the western and southern coastal areas
30.Ringed Plover, fairly common along rivers, bare shores of lakes
31.Golden Plover, common in nearly all places of Iceland whenever there is some vegetation
32 Grey Plover *
33.Lapwing*
34.Knot, migrating birds at Reykholar and Garðskagi
35.Sanderling, as knot but only few birds
36.Purple Sandpiper, alert birds near Reykholar, Breidavik and L'laugar
37.Dunlin, birds in their breeding-areas near lake Myvatn, Reykholar, Breidavik; migrating birds in all coastal areas
38.Snipe, common in all places, outside the volcanic regions. At Breidavik a breeding bird in front of my tent at about 10 meters (!).
39.Black-tailed Godwit, the Icelandic subspecies, postbreeding birds at Myvatn; birds with young near Reykholar.
40.Whimbrel, common breeding bird in most areas, like golden plover, but not so high
41.redshank, fairly common in most coastal regions
42.Turnstone, migrating birds in the W (Hellisandur, Garðskagi)
43.Red-necked Phalarope, common as a breeding bird and as a migrating bird
44.Artic Skua, seen in most areas of Iceland, mainly dark-phase (certainly more than 50%)
45.Great Skua, widespread in coastal areas sometimes great numbers especially in the SW (Reykjanes) and the S (to the S of Vatnajokul)
46.Black-headed Gull, widespread but not in great numbers
47.Common Gull, small numbers, mainly in the S
48.Lesser Black-backed Gull, numerous at Reykjanes-peninsula
49.Herring Gull, mainly in the S and E part of Iceland to be seen
50.Iceland Gull, 1 juv bird near Garðskagi
51.Glaucous gull, common around Breidafjordur, especially in the N part great numbers of roosting birds.
52.Great Black-backed Gull, numerous in the area around Snaefellsness
53.Kittiwake, numerous in most coastal areas
54.Arctic Tern, at some places numerous, e.g. near their colonies at Hellisandur-Rif,
55.Guillemot, various places along the coast: Rauðinupur, Latrabjarg.....
56.Brunnich's Guillemot, same places as previous species but in smaller numbers
57.Razorbill, as guillemot
58.Black Guillemot , widespread along the coast
59.Puffin, more widespread than guillemot; near Latrabjarg ("Breidavik-region") you can approach these birds up to 20 cm
60.Rock Dove *
61.Swift *
62.Swallow *
63.Meadow Pipit, widespread
64.White Wagtail, widespread
65.Wren, Skaftafell, rare this year, not at Myvatn or in Reykjavik. On the Faeroer another subspecies.
66.Wheatear, widespread
67.Blackbird, not in Reykjavik but at Skaftafjell
68.Redwing, whenever there is a small scrub this bird is common and sometimes they will be easily fed by campers or look in their tents (!).
69.Hooded crow *
70.Raven, common in all parts of Iceland, sometimes in small groups
71.Starling, at several places at the Reykjanes-peninsula
72.House Sparrow *
73.Redpoll, only when there are small trees, like near Myvatn, Skaftafjell
74.Snow Bunting, sometimes numerous in rocky regions
Mammals
We have attended a "whale-watching-safari near Husavik (1b). There are also possibilities at Olafsvik and Keflavik (W)
American Mink, L'laugar, 1 ind at 19 aug
Arctic Fox, at least two families in Breidavik, playing and hunting at the beach at 7 aug
Common Seal, some near Husavik at 27 july
Grey Seal, at several places, especially near the W and the S-coast
Hooded Seal, near Flatey (Skjalfandi, Husavik bay) 1 male at 27 july
White-sided Dolphin, 5 ind Skjalfandi at 27 july
White-beaked Dolphin, 1 ind near Flatey (Skjalfandi)
Common Porpoise, some seen in coastal areas in the N and the W
Minke Whale, 10-12 ind seen in Skjalfandi (Husavik bay)
Flowers
I made the big mistake: not to bring along my book(s) on flowers. As will be expected the flora is a mixture of alpine and marine species. So just some names:
"Moonfern" (Botrychium spec) - numerous at Breidavik
several catchflies (silene spec)
Arctic Poopy (Papaver radicatum ) - NW - peninsula
Alpine Saxifrage (Saxifraga nivalis) - NW - peninsula
Marsh Saxifrage (Saxifraga hirculus ) - Reykholar
Parnassia (Parnassia palustris) - widespread and at some places (Breidavik) very numerous.
Mountain Avens (Dryas octopetala) - common at Myvatn .
Lady's Mantles (Alchemilla spec) - widespread in lower areas, there is a A. faeroensis
Snowgentian (Gentiana nivalis) - widespread near Myvatn
Slender Gentian (Gentiana tenella) - some in Breidavik
Field Gentian (Gentiana campestris) - common in the NW
Rock Speedwell (Veronica fruticans) - in NW peninsula
Alpine Bartsia (Bartsia alpina) - several places, common near Myvatn
Common Butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris) - most places, mostly not flowering.
Butterflyorchid (Platantera spec) - Reykholar a.o.
Volcanic activities
near Myvatn : Krafla to the NE of Reykjahlið and Namafjall to the E with Solfataras-fields
Hverfjoll (crater) and Dimmuborgir (lava) to the S of Reykjahlið
Skutustadir (pseudo-craters) at the southern end of lake Myvatn
Reykjanes-peninsula: rather dull landscape due to the lava with some volcanos
Between Reykjanesta en Grindavik there is some interesting activity, similar to Namafjall but without the tourists
Grindavik: Blue Lagoon , the world-famous swimming-pool.
Þingvellir: a great rift where the E-part and the W-part of Iceland are "drifting" away
Haukaladur: the geysir Stokkur
Landmannalaugar: hot springs, mud-pools, rumbling and hissing holes, colorful mountains
Literature
Lars Johnson, Vogels van Europa
Sørensen and Bloch, Vogels van de Noordatlantische eilanden
Van den Brink. Zoogdierengids
M.Carwardine, Whales and whalewatching in Iceland
M.Carwardine, Iceland - Nature's Meeting Place
W.Wisniewski, Reisefuhrer Natur - Island
Deanna Swanney, Iceland, Greenland & the Faroe Islands , Lonely Planet.
A. Jansen, Reishandboek IJsland, Elmar
Harm A. Meek
de Plevier 7
7591 JJ Denekamp
Netherlands
meek@xs4all.nl